After a gentle spring rain, bamboo shoots that have slumbered beneath the winter soil begin to stir. Pale, moisture-laden tips break through the earth, releasing the crisp, tender, faintly sweet scent of mountain air. For many Chinese families, this is the season's most vivid taste — yu shui (Rain Water), the second of the 24 solar terms.
After the Start of Spring, Rain Water falls on Feb 18, heralding a rise in temperatures. The term reflects not just a change in weather, but a shift at the dining table. Damp soil and warming air coax bamboo shoots to sprout, nature's rhythm quietly spreads into the kitchen.
"As Rain Water nears, the shoots grow fresher by the day," said Luo Yang, veteran chef and founder of Huaiyangfu, a Huaiyang cuisine restaurant in Beijing. For Luo, the charm of spring bamboo shoots lies in their fleeting perfection.
"Spring shoots are tender and crisp, best stir-fried briefly or served cold," Luo explained. "Paired with malantou (Indian aster) or dried tofu, they showcase their natural sweetness." Winter shoots, denser in texture, are better suited to braising or oil-braising, he added.
At Huaiyangfu, the classic yanduxian — a slow-simmered soup of fresh and cured pork with bamboo shoots — is still being made with winter shoots. However, as this solar term begins, the restaurant gradually shifts to spring shoots.
"Spring shoots mature quickly," Luo said. "We handle each part separately, timing their addition carefully to remove any bitterness while keeping freshness intact."
Beyond the professional kitchen, seasonal foods hold deep cultural meaning. Tang Zhiqiang, a scholar of folk culture, observes that after Rain Water, wild greens begin to flourish, with bamboo shoots and shepherd's purse among the most emblematic.
The phrase "spring shoots after rain" not only evokes rapid growth, but also expresses hopes for steady progress and rising fortunes. Seasonal foods, he notes, carry both flavor and auspicious significance.
A folk saying captures the essence: "Spring rain nourishes all things; spring soup nurtures body and mind." Slowly simmered bamboo shoots in a clear broth offer a flavor that is both seasonal and restorative.
Light and refreshing, spring bamboo shoots reveal their true character most clearly in soup. Combined with stock, they provide warmth without heaviness, reflecting early spring's principle of reducing rich tonics while enhancing freshness.
Across China, regional differences shape the specifics, yet the practice of eating with the seasons endures.
In Jiangnan (referring to the southern regions of the lower reaches of the Yangtze River), diners treasure the delicate freshness of spring vegetables. Bamboo shoots are peeled, sliced and gently simmered with shepherd's purse in a clear broth, seasoned simply with a pinch of salt. The result is bright and translucent, with crisp shoots and fragrant greens harmonizing in a clean, subtly sweet flavor.
Further north, early spring still holds a lingering chill. On urban tables, bamboo shoots are often stewed with tofu or radish to counter the cold. These pairings are both practical and flavorful, balancing lingering dampness and residual frost.
Few people strictly follow the solar term rituals today, yet many still buy a bundle of fresh shoots during Rain Water and simmer a pot of clear soup. As steam rises and fragrance drifts upward, spring gently settles onto the table — in the curling tendrils of bamboo shoots, the bright green of herbs, and letting the warmth spread from bowl to stomach.
liyingxue@chinadaily.com.cn
